Switzerland Tiki Touring
8th September- 70km Ortesei to Merano by bike via Bolzano. What a buzz! The first 40km was downhill back through plum orchards and apple orchard on a bike trail. We tried several times to take a train as with your accommodation you pay a tourist tax which then gives you free bus and train transport. However there was a train strike so we were forced to keep riding. The riding was pretty cool as we were on bike trails all the way and lots of people were out on bikes enjoying the day. On arrival in Merano we checked the trains and were delighted to find one was leaving in 5mins to where we wanted to go Mals. The forecast was for very heavy rain so we wanted to get out of the area as quickly as possible. Once on the train the rain began. So lucky ! We got off the train straight on to a bus with a bike rack. This bus took us all the way into Switzerland to Zernaz. The campground was 200 metres from the train station 🚉! Bliss. We quickly put up the tent in the rain then cooked dinner in the kitchen and ate in the library. So grateful to have shelter. The rain fell all night we could hear the river thundering past the campground which was a bit unnerving as Emma had a dream the night before that we were swept away in the night.
We had arranged to meet Emma's friends in Valbella on the 11th and had intended to do another route called marmots land but with the forecast it was too risky so we decided to head for St Moritz for a look. We had a great ride following the national bike route 6 and 65 . Spent some time looking around Saint Moritz wondering who shops in the brand stores All glitz and glamour for sure. We found a warm showers host in Silvaplana but he wasn't going to be home until 6.30pm so we rode around Lakes Silvaplane and Segl and filled in time. What a cool night. There wee two other cyclists filming a bije trip for a bike brand. Four ski instructors and us two. We had a lively evening eating gnocci and chatting . This section of our trip is quite different from the rest. It's so nice taking time to chat with others and be more about the sights than the kilometres. He tangata he tangata he tangata. Seeing people living their dream lives is inspiring.
10th Sept 76kms over Albula pass
What a great day of riding from Silvaplana to Valbella. It wasn't the warmest of days but the scenery made up for it. We followed the Glacier bike tour route for most of the ride and were treated to some spectacular sights. We are settling in to a what i call cycle touring rather than bikepacking. We get up without an alarm have leisurely breakfast with coffee and stop regularly for photos. Our routes are still challenging but all rideable and reasonably kind gradients. We aim for a maximum of 100kms a day and stop by around 4pm rather than 7 or 8 pm. The days are getting colder and shorter so this approach works perfectly .
11th September We had a leisurely wake up and get up as Emma's friends were meeting us at lunchtime. We spent the morning planning some mountain bike riding and hikes in the area. Met up with Regular and Hanas at 12 and they insisted on taking us out to lunch. We are so spoilt. We spent the afternoon chatting before they bid farewell and left us in charge of their beautiful apartment with the fire roaring. We settled in for the evening on the couch with a movie
12th Sept What an incredible sleep! We woke up to a winter wonderland as it had snowed overnight. We put on our hiking gear and headed up a peak from the house. It was so beautiful and peaceful and not a soul around. It was pretty chilly but with our Rab base layer mid layer and puffer jackets, beanies and gloves we were toasty as.What a great day. We headed home for a late lunch did some shopping then once again settled in to the warmth and comfort of a house. We are feeling very lucky at this point. Having a home base in such a stunning location is amazing.
13th Sept woke up to a total snow storm. It was so beautiful 😍. We headed to town to get wifi to call our families then put on our rab cinder kinetic waterproof pants and jackets and headed out into the snow with sleds what a hoot we spent a couple of hours sledding outside the house. So impressed with our overpants and jackets as they kept us dry and toastie even though we were regularly buried in snow spent the afternoon planning and cleaning gear and getting sorted for the next phase of the adventure.
Sat 14th Sept More snow fell overnight The place is so beautiful just like a winter postcard. We walked around the lake in the morning. Spent the afternoon cleaning the bike chains, baking bread and sledding down a steep slope. What a great day which we finished off with a bath and a delicious dinner of Ròsti, a farmers sausage and vegetables. We could get used to this. It is so nice to have a place to call home where we can relax and not worry about the next campsite or if we are going to get caught in the rain or snow. Bikepacking is awesome but sometimes you feel a little vulnerable and it can be stressful at times. This time here at Valbella has been amazing and to have snow like we have had has really made it a very special experience. The air started to warm late afternoon and the snow quickly disappeared on the lower slopes and valleys . While we are sad to see it go we are also excited about being able to get on with the next stage of our trip and ride through to Zermatt and hopefully catch a glimpse of the Matterhorn!
Sun 15th Sept Valbella
Spent the day walking in the hills and snow. We met a local guy who walked with us and even shared his lunch with us. We loved the day but the bikes were calling and we were ready to move on.
Mon 16th Sept Valbella to just below Oberalppass. We had a lovely descent from Valbella then we were on the eurovelo 17 trails. We met two kiwis from wanaka who we identified due to their ground effect gear. 98km.
We thought we could get over the Oberwald pass to Andermatt but at 4.30pm the rain moved in and we were freezing so we called in to the nearest hotel for a hot shower and a warm sleep.
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Tues17th Sept What a day over Oberalp and Furker passes 2436 m very cold but stunning stunning stunning. Met 2 Canadians who knew our friend Bruno! Small world. Descended from 2400 metres to 500 metres. What a buzz and finally we were warm. 18 degrees I'm the valley. Made it to Brig and a warm showers. Cooked dinner roasted vegetables and an apple crumble. Had a lovely evening sharing travel stories. 91kms
Wed 18th Sept Brig to Zermatt. 58km Hoping to see the Matterhorn in all its glory but it stayed hidden. Did a 4 hour walk in the hills which was pretty stunning with glaciers in every direction. Camped in Zermatt which was pretty cool. Had a fire and cooked some bratwurst. Nom nom.
Thurs 19th 70km Woke up to a cold 🥶 morning but the Matterhorn was clear so we headed back up in the hills to get a closer view. Unfortunately by the time we got up to the viewing place the cloud had rolled in. Had a great walk back down with no one else around. Got back to the bikes and packed up the tent etc. Biked back down to Visp and then along and up to Goppenstein where we caught a car train to Kandersteg. Hopped off the train and rode to the campground and checked into a lodge and a room for the night.
Fri 20th Woke up has breakfast then stored our luggage with our bikes and went to meet Gabby at the gondola. Wow what a beautiful spot urcihnasee is. We were so glad we got to go back and experience it again in good weather. Gabby treated us to 3 sled rides, lunch and dessert and then drove us to Connys sisters house. Her niece Adriana had taken the afternoon off and was home to meet us. We had a great evening with the whole family.
Sat 21st 98km
Woke up and connys sister had been out and got fresh bread from a local farmer. It was so fresh and delicious. We packed our bikes up and Adriana agreed to cycle in to Bern with us. It was cool riding with her. She showed us around the sights in Bern then after a locally made ice cream we went on our way. Followed cycleway route 34 to ... and found a lovely camping ground in Olten for the night.
Sun 22nd Olten to Illnau 100km
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Mon 23rd Illnau
Tues 24th Illnau
Wed 25th illnau. Hanna our host had the day off do we went for a lovely walk inn the countryside
Thurs 26th We were supposed to head to Lake Constance but it was raining and Emma wasn't feeling well so we decided it wait another day before heading off
Friday 27th Illnau to Kreuzlingen 85km via Wiesendangen and Stein on Rein. Caught up with Fabienne and Patricia. A cold rainy afternoon. Cooked roast vegetables salad with nz lamb for Regula for dinner.
Saturday 28th Went for a morning walk then the day became cold and rainy. Once again we were happy to have a house to stay warm and dry in.
Sunday 29th
The weather has turned so it is definitely time to head South to a warmer climate. We decided to head to Geneva by train then ride to Thonon-les-Bains along the Eurovelo 17 to our warm showers hosts. We had a lovely evening chatting and sharing stories and were treated to a delicious French style meal salad then lasagne then cheese then dessert 🍨.
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