Tour Gondwana: A Bikepacking Adventure

In planning for this adventure we knew we couldn't complete the entire Tour Gondwana in the time we had, but we were determined to give it a try and see how far we could get with the 10 days we had set aside.

We headed off on the Tour Gondwana with anticipation, excitement, and a healthy dose of nerves. Over ten days, our bikes carried us through some of Australia’s most striking landscapes — from frosty highlands to dry, sunbaked trails, from rainforest dawns to traffic-free backroads. It was a ride of contrasts: brutal and beautiful, hot and cold, tough and rewarding.

Day 1: Brisbane to Boonah — 173km

Our adventure began with a tough, hot, and dry first day. The ride took us over mountain bike trails, fire trails, gravel roads, grassy tracks, and even some quiet sealed stretches. Wildlife kept us entertained — kangaroos, cows, horses, goats, dogs, and even one swooping magpie. Mount Nebo was the highlight; the lowlight, a rear tyre puncture. We rolled into Boonah exhausted but happy, resting up in a cosy motel and already looking forward to day two.

Day 2: Boonah to Stanthorpe — 165km

If day one was brutal, day two was even more so. Steep little pinches tested the legs, but the rewards were worth it. We stumbled across a grapefruit tree (delicious), soaked in the stunning Condamine River Gorge, and cruised along smooth white gravel roads. The motel shower at the end felt like pure bliss. The only real downside? A lot of potholes.

Day 3: Stanthorpe to Tenterfield — 95km

A cold, frosty start had us layered up, but once the sun came through, the riding conditions were perfect. The route was scenic all day, with rugged rock formations and sweeping views. At just under 100km, it felt good to finish a little earlier than usual. The lesson learned: start in more clothes tomorrow!

Day 4: Tenterfield to Glen Innes — 144km

Rolling hills and farmland framed our ride today, with around 2,200m of climbing. The scenery was “very Australia” — wide open, raw, and beautiful. A small mishap with missing carrier screws could have been a disaster, but luckily we’d packed spares. Preparedness for the win.

Day 5: Glen Innes to Guy Fawkes Lookout — 148km

Another long day, but one filled with character. With a tailwind pushing us along, we were nearly turned back twice — once by forestry workers and once by road crews. Somehow, after sneaking past multiple closure signs, we made it through. A swim in the river was the day’s highlight, along with a sunset climb. The lowlight? A bungy strap tangled in the cassette.

Day 6: Guy Fawkes NP to Bowraville outskirts — 140km

A missed alarm meant a late start, but we shrugged it off — this is an adventure, not a race. Big climbs, great descents, and endless national park vistas defined the day. Water was scarce, so we rationed carefully, even finding a trickle from a slip that kept us going. Scenery from the ridges was unforgettable, and there was just enough water for a hot chocolate at camp.

Day 7: Rainforest Camp to Bellbrook — 120km

An early 4am start rewarded us with an unforgettable sunrise ride through the rainforest, alive with bird calls. Civilization greeted us in Bowraville and Macksville, where we restocked before heading to Bellbrook. A pub meal and a cabin bed awaited — luxuries we savoured before tackling the next remote section.

Day 8: Bellbrook to Mooraback Horse Camp — 80km

A severe wind warning had us cautious, but with shelter from the trees, we pushed through. The deafening wind sounded worse than it felt. We made it past Kookaburra campsite and pushed on to Mooraback, reaching camp just as the road opened to the gale. Choosing safety, we sheltered in a tin shed, lit a fire, and enjoyed a surprisingly cosy evening.

Day 9: Mooraback to Nowendoc — 100km

The frost was biting, but the day turned sunny and calm. A good burger at the Nowendoc shop and a warm hotel bed made this one of the most comfortable days yet. With washed-out bridges ahead and time with family in Sydney calling, we decided to pause the Tour Gondwana here, saving the remaining section for another time.

Day 10: Nowendoc to Gloucester — 79km

Our final day wasn’t the end we’d planned, but it was memorable nonetheless. Thunderbolts Way delivered quiet, traffic-free riding, with wildlife sightings including a dingo. The friendliness of the people in Gloucester blew us away — they helped us source one bike box and craft another from florist cartons so we could board the train to Sydney. Over dinner and drinks at the pub, we toasted to an incredible adventure.

Lessons from the Trail

People often fear snakes, spiders, crocs, or leeches when riding in Australia. But the real challenges?

Hitting kangaroos or wombats
Finding water on remote stretches
Coping with sparse resupply
Battling high winds and falling trees
Dealing with washed-out bridges or fire risks
And of course, the occasional stick in the derailleur!

Tour Gondwana tested us every day, but rewarded us in equal measure. From frosty mornings to golden sunsets, from wildlife encounters to the generosity of strangers, this ride reminded us of the beauty — and the unpredictability — of Australia.

A huge thanks to Paul for planning this route and supplying the GPX files. We will be back . Thanks to RAB NZ for our awesome RAB gear.