Conquering the European Divide Trail: A Hardcore Bikepacking Journey Across Europe

 

The European Divide Trail (EDT) isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s a relentless, awe-inspiring adventure that demands stamina, perseverance, and a deep love for the road less travelled. This is more than just a bikepacking route—it’s a challenge that will take you through some of Europe’s most rugged and remote landscapes, from sun-soaked plains to mist-covered mountains, and beyond. We recently took on the challenge and traversed a gruelling 7,800 km route across Europe from Cabo St Vincent in Portugal to Grense Jakobselv in Norway.

Portugal and Spain: Sunburned Plains and Endless Challenges
Our journey began in Portugal, where the sun-drenched coastline made us feel truly alive. As we navigated the vast olive groves and mountaintops, ancient villages clinging to the land, stunning wild flowers and endless horizons that make every tough pedal stroke worth it.

As we crossed into France and then Germany, the terrain shifted. The Jura Mountains offered up technical climbs and descents that were to die for. The historic walled cities and castles were stark reminders of the history of this area. The pastries were to die for.

Reaching Denmark, with its bike-friendly network of shelters with their grass-covered roofs offered a brief respite—but don’t get too comfortable. This leg of the trail demands focus as you push on into Sweden, where the forests grow denser and the lakes become mirrors reflecting your fatigue and determination. Here, the wilderness feels both infinite and intimate, and you’ll find moments of solitude that make the struggle worthwhile. We traversed over 2500 kilometers through the Swedish forests sharing our journey with reindeer, moose and huge aggressive mosquitoes.

Norway: The Grand Finale
But the real payoff comes when you reach Norway. Suddenly, the forests of Sweden and Finland are behind you, and the landscape opens up—dramatic peaks rise from the earth, fjords cut through the land, and the views seem to stretch for miles. The transition from dense wilderness to wide-open vistas is nothing short of epic. The struggle to get here makes the vast beauty of Norway feel like an exhilarating release, a reminder of why we ride.

Conclusion: A Journey Like No Other
The European Divide Trail isn’t just a bikepacking route—it’s a test of grit and resilience. It challenges you to dig deeper, push further, and experience Europe in a way few ever will. Every kilometer is a triumph, each challenge is a reward, and the quiet moments in between are where the adventure truly comes alive.

If you’re a seasoned bikepacker ready for the ride of a lifetime, the EDT will push you to your limits—and beyond. Are you ready to take on the European Divide?

 Musings from the Trail

While the European Divide Trail has been a dream come true, it hasn’t been without its moments of contemplation and reflection. Here are a few things we’ve learned along the way:

  • Patience is Key: Sometimes the trail doesn’t go as planned. Whether it’s taking a wrong turn or getting caught in a rainstorm, patience is your best friend. Don’t rush from point A to point B; sometimes the journey itself is the reward.
  • Mud: The Enemy of Bikes: Let’s face it—mud and bikes don’t mix. When the trails get wet, the mess that follows can be a real challenge. Be prepared for it, but don’t let it ruin your ride.
  • Adapting to Culture: Each country you pass through on the EDT has its own rhythm. From the relaxed vibe in Spain to the punctuality of Switzerland, adjusting your pace and mindset to match the local culture will make the ride even more enjoyable.

Essential Gear: What We Wore (and Wore Again)

When you’re out on the trail every day, gear becomes your second skin. After riding thousands of kilometers, there are a few items we found ourselves turning to again and again:

  • Rab Cinder Kinetic Jackets: For the cool, damp days in the mountains, this jacket became a lifesaver. It’s lightweight, waterproof, and breathable—perfect for unpredictable European weather.
  • Rab Cinder Ridgeline Tops: When the weather was dry and crisp, these tops kept us comfortable without overheating and getting sunburnt. They’re breathable and versatile, making them perfect for both on and off the bike.
  • Rab Cinder Liner Bike Shorts: These shorts were a daily staple. Comfortable, durable, and perfect for long days in the saddle.
  • Rab Cinder Kinetic Pants: On cold days, these pants were our go-to. They protected us from the cold elements—and also helped with mosquito protection during those warm nights

Words of Wisdom

Sometimes the trail can feel overwhelming. When you’re tired, wet, or just over it, remember this:

  • Take a Break and Recharge: If you’re no longer excited about the journey, it’s time to pause. Whether it’s a full rest day or just a moment to savour the view, recharging your energy and enthusiasm is key to finishing strong.
  • Savor the Journey: And remember, all roads lead somewhere—whether it’s a quaint French village or a mountain pass with jaw-dropping views. Don’t rush through it all. The journey is just as important as the destination.

 

Final Thoughts: The EDT Is What You Make of It

At the end of the day, the European Divide Trail isn’t just a ride; it’s an experience that will challenge you, inspire you, and take you through some of the most beautiful and diverse landscapes Europe has to offer. Embrace the ups and downs, both literal and metaphorical, and take it all in. Whether you’re conquering the climbs or savoring the pastries, there’s magic in every moment on the EDT.

 

























Tour Gondwana: An Australian Bikepacking Adventure

 

Tour Gondwana: A Bikepacking Adventure

In planning for this adventure we knew we couldn't complete the entire Tour Gondwana in the time we had, but we were determined to give it a try and see how far we could get with the 10 days we had set aside.

We headed off on the Tour Gondwana with anticipation, excitement, and a healthy dose of nerves. Over ten days, our bikes carried us through some of Australia’s most striking landscapes — from frosty highlands to dry, sunbaked trails, from rainforest dawns to traffic-free backroads. It was a ride of contrasts: brutal and beautiful, hot and cold, tough and rewarding.

Day 1: Brisbane to Boonah — 173km

Our adventure began with a tough, hot, and dry first day. The ride took us over mountain bike trails, fire trails, gravel roads, grassy tracks, and even some quiet sealed stretches. Wildlife kept us entertained — kangaroos, cows, horses, goats, dogs, and even one swooping magpie. Mount Nebo was the highlight; the lowlight, a rear tyre puncture. We rolled into Boonah exhausted but happy, resting up in a cosy motel and already looking forward to day two.

Day 2: Boonah to Stanthorpe — 165km

If day one was brutal, day two was even more so. Steep little pinches tested the legs, but the rewards were worth it. We stumbled across a grapefruit tree (delicious), soaked in the stunning Condamine River Gorge, and cruised along smooth white gravel roads. The motel shower at the end felt like pure bliss. The only real downside? A lot of potholes.

Day 3: Stanthorpe to Tenterfield — 95km

A cold, frosty start had us layered up, but once the sun came through, the riding conditions were perfect. The route was scenic all day, with rugged rock formations and sweeping views. At just under 100km, it felt good to finish a little earlier than usual. The lesson learned: start in more clothes tomorrow!

Day 4: Tenterfield to Glen Innes — 144km

Rolling hills and farmland framed our ride today, with around 2,200m of climbing. The scenery was “very Australia” — wide open, raw, and beautiful. A small mishap with missing carrier screws could have been a disaster, but luckily we’d packed spares. Preparedness for the win.

Day 5: Glen Innes to Guy Fawkes Lookout — 148km

Another long day, but one filled with character. With a tailwind pushing us along, we were nearly turned back twice — once by forestry workers and once by road crews. Somehow, after sneaking past multiple closure signs, we made it through. A swim in the river was the day’s highlight, along with a sunset climb. The lowlight? A bungy strap tangled in the cassette.

Day 6: Guy Fawkes NP to Bowraville outskirts — 140km

A missed alarm meant a late start, but we shrugged it off — this is an adventure, not a race. Big climbs, great descents, and endless national park vistas defined the day. Water was scarce, so we rationed carefully, even finding a trickle from a slip that kept us going. Scenery from the ridges was unforgettable, and there was just enough water for a hot chocolate at camp.

Day 7: Rainforest Camp to Bellbrook — 120km

An early 4am start rewarded us with an unforgettable sunrise ride through the rainforest, alive with bird calls. Civilization greeted us in Bowraville and Macksville, where we restocked before heading to Bellbrook. A pub meal and a cabin bed awaited — luxuries we savoured before tackling the next remote section.

Day 8: Bellbrook to Mooraback Horse Camp — 80km

A severe wind warning had us cautious, but with shelter from the trees, we pushed through. The deafening wind sounded worse than it felt. We made it past Kookaburra campsite and pushed on to Mooraback, reaching camp just as the road opened to the gale. Choosing safety, we sheltered in a tin shed, lit a fire, and enjoyed a surprisingly cosy evening.

Day 9: Mooraback to Nowendoc — 100km

The frost was biting, but the day turned sunny and calm. A good burger at the Nowendoc shop and a warm hotel bed made this one of the most comfortable days yet. With washed-out bridges ahead and time with family in Sydney calling, we decided to pause the Tour Gondwana here, saving the remaining section for another time.

Day 10: Nowendoc to Gloucester — 79km

Our final day wasn’t the end we’d planned, but it was memorable nonetheless. Thunderbolts Way delivered quiet, traffic-free riding, with wildlife sightings including a dingo. The friendliness of the people in Gloucester blew us away — they helped us source one bike box and craft another from florist cartons so we could board the train to Sydney. Over dinner and drinks at the pub, we toasted to an incredible adventure.


Lessons from the Trail

People often fear snakes, spiders, crocs, or leeches when riding in Australia. But the real challenges?

  • Hitting kangaroos or wombats

  • Finding water on remote stretches

  • Coping with sparse resupply

  • Battling high winds and falling trees

  • Dealing with washed-out bridges or fire risks

  • And of course, the occasional stick in the derailleur!


Tour Gondwana tested us every day, but rewarded us in equal measure. From frosty mornings to golden sunsets, from wildlife encounters to the generosity of strangers, this ride reminded us of the beauty — and the unpredictability — of Australia.

A huge thanks to Paul for planning this route and supplying the GPX files. We will be back . Thanks to RAB NZ for our awesome RAB gear.



























Stage 12 - The canary Islands

Our energy levels were low, our motivation was waning and we had 3 weeks left of our trip  We were sick of the rain, sick of the cold and sick of average. We craved the wow factor,  we craved the warm, and we craved the freedom of settled weather without risks of flooding. We had planned a delicious bike packing route around Catalonia but the frosts and cold and weather forecast of more severe flooding on the Spanish coast had us a little on edge. In the past 2 weeks several towns had suffered severe damage from floods. After hours of deliberation and assessing the pros and cons of various options, our answer was to jump on a plane and head south to the Canary islands. Our friends Alba and Ricard were amazing and helped us make it happen by getting bike boxes and dropping us off at Barcelona airport. So lucky for us. Waah we landed at 8. 00pm to warm calm conditions and a bright moon, assembled our bikes and rode 6 kilometres in the pitch black to our airbnb. We were instantly warm and sweaty and bumping around on volcanic gravel roads through a mine following google maps. We were both back in our happy place excited for the ride ahead on the Grangaunche bikepacking trail route  https://granguanche.com/ Bring it on.

800km 20,000 metres of climb.  5 islands.  

Lanzarote- 120 km 2.450 m+ Black lava fields, white houses, and green vineyards. Lanzarote is a ride on the moon.

Fuerteventura 160km 2.600 m+ White beaches, sand dunes, and remote deserts. Fuerteventura feels like Africa

Gran Canaria 140km 3.950 m+ Deep ravines, enormous cliffs, and aboriginal caves.

Tenerife 170km 4.600 m+ Enchanted forests, old colonial towns and a massive volcano.

La palma 190km 6.450 m+ Pristine forests, bananas plantations,rugged volcanoes, and clear night skies.

 








Day 1 69km Lanzarote to wild camp
Woke up to blue skies and warm conditions.  Slept in packed the bikes and reattached the aero bars then the heavens opened and we got our first touch of tropical raIn. We were thankful to be in the bnb and watched the rain from the comfort of our room.  Once the rain had passed we headed out in search of a gas bottle and supplies for our time on the island.
An interesting fact is the Canary islands have no natural water source so use the desalination process for their water. This was going to be a new challenge for us particularly once we head out into the hills and get more remote.  We were instantly blown away with the scenery barren volcanic soil and volcanoes in every direction.  What a contrast to anything else we have seen on this trip. There were small patches of green where people have tried to plant crops.  We headed for decathlon to get gas and once again were straight onto gravel roads bumpy and soft in places.  Unfortunately decathlon didn't have what we were looking for so once again webegan the task of travelling from shop to shop seeking a gas cannister with screw top. Luckily we had been in Spain before and knew the name for hardware store so we're able to track one down there. The next stop was a supermarket to stock up on supplies for the next few days. We like to be self sufficient so try to carry a couple days of breakfasts and dinners just in case the smaller towns have limited supplies or are closed when we pass through. Learning the rhythm of each new country / island always takes a few days. Once again we were straight into single track/ 4wd/ scoria roads. At one point the rain came down and the road instantly turned to peanut butter mud. A bit of a disaster/ challenge as we couldn't move as our bikes were covered and clogged. Luckily the sun came out again and dried the roads up and we were able to scrape off the bulk of the mud in some puddles. Once we hit a main road again we found a petrol station where they allowed us to use their hose and give the bikes a good clean the lube. Made it to the bottom of the island and the start of the Grand Gauche bikepacking route.  We had had a great day with stunning views great trails (mostly) and lovely white buildings. It was warm and sunny apart from 2 downpours. We found a very cool campspot off the road and sheltered from view for the night. What a great day 1.































Day 2 Wild camp to just out of   . On Futureeventa Island. 102km
Another spectacular day of riding gravel roads and some bumpy bumpy. We passed through surf tourist towns, small villages all painted white and acres of rocky volcanic fields thT had been painstakingly cultivated.  There were thousands of rock walls protecting grapevines. The vines were dug into hollows. It truly was mindblowing how these volcanic lands have been cleared a cultivated.  Absolutely incredible.  We figured that the mtb route was not worth taking as it consisted pf stairs and bumpy rocky single tracks which slowed us down considerably with loaded bikes The gravel route was still remote and challenging enough particularly when it rained and the surface turned to peanut butter within seconds.  We restocked water and supplies then headed to the end of the island and playa blanca to where the ferry to the next island departed. We knew the ferry left every 30mins so sprinted in the hope of getting the 5pm one. We arrived at 2 mins to 5 but they wouldn't let us on without a ticket so we had to wit u till 6pm. This meant that it would be dark when we arrived at the next island which is always a bit stressful particularly when we wanred to camp. We found a park 4 a night site 4 kms away and set our sights on beeliniing it directly there. Luckily it was a full moon as we were quickly on a corrugated gravel road. We found the site campervan free right next to the ocean and set up camp then enjoyed a wine and some yoghurt and muesli. We had an ok sleep but were a bit concerned tge ocean was going to sweep us away when the tide came in  we had plenty of height but boy was the surf pounding 


























Day 3 wild camp to just out of Pajara 109km
Coastal walking tracks magnificent views stunning vistas long gravel roads with a strong headwind arrangement desert landscape dotted with towns and small houses. Incredible riding bumpy in places. Stopped in a surf town for the best coffee we have had in a longtime. The benefits of tourism. Found a deserted building just before dark to set up camp for the night  A great day. We are both feeling very lucky to be here and have the opportunity to experience this place. It truly is a bikepackers dream. 


























Day 4 wild camp to ferry at Morro jable. 74kms
Great quiet protected sleep. Woke up to another lovely day with the full moon still shining high above us .Gravel and sealed roads. Booked accommodation . Amazing coastline covered with beautiful beaches.  Kite surfers windsurfers galore at one point the gpx file had us riding right on the coast in the sand it looked like at hightide we would be under water . Luckily we were there at low tide. Stocked up waited for the ferry then departed for gran canaria our next island. As it was a 2hour  ferry we booked accommodation where we got off the ferry. We didn't want a repeat of riding through a town in the dark searching for a campsite. Bought fresh vegetables and things for a nice salad to eat on the ferry to help kill some time. Also fresh papaya after we saw some growing in people's well watered gardens and started craving one!


then we hit the outskirts of Morrojable.  Nice as we had a cycleway but jam packed with 5 star hotels and shops. Not our scene at all - high consumerism and vulgar greed. Too many very overweight old men who could hardly walk. Made it to the ferry to gran canaria at 3pm but the next sailing wasn't until 5.30 so we relaxed and kept cool  Ferry crossing was a bit rough ! Arrived into a reasonably large city Las palmas but it had a great vibe and cycle paths which to us to our hotel for the night. So thankful we had booked ahead. 

















Day 5 Las Palmas Grand Canaria to campsite Llanos del salado.  76km
Left Las palmas on a cycle trail and enjoyed a coffee a d thevibe of the town once more.  Wereshockedto see Xmas decorations etc in shops. Omg too soon too much for us. We then found ourselves on a bumpy gravel trail in a huge gully full of plants. Banana trees avocados papaya cactus fruit trees and smells  everywhere . Quite a contrast to the previous islands. The trail gave us a glimpse of the back end of town which is always a bit gross but we have definitely seen worse.  The next few hours were spend winding through villages and towns in the heat (28 degrees) and a bit too suburban for us. We passed an American school with dome shaped classrooms, we stopped to buy some fruit from a roadside stall. He overcharged us but also gave us plenty of samples and an avocado and the experience of dealing with him was one to remember.  It wasn't until after lunch that the scenery changed and we were happier. We wound our way up to 2000 metres on steep concrete and gravel roads through a massive canyon. There were houses built in caves on the edge of the canyon. Quite something.  We summited at 2200 and felt the change in temperature.  A man stopped and gave us two bottles of water which was awesome.  In this area there were a number of designated camping areas so we headed to one and promptly set up camp in the cold. 























Day 6 76km
Amazing amazing riding   Great downs and a few ups. Spectacular vistas, awesome gravel traffic free trails. Wow days like this put a smile on the dial for sure. Caught ferry over to Santa cruz tenerife. Booked a bnb so we could restock and prepare for the next three days of riding.  Happy girls .




Day 7
Up and at em steep climbs stormin Norman  windy as long climbs. Were heading up tp 2400 metres and the forecast looked shocking(massive rainfall and high wi'nds)so we stopped at lunchtime and found a lovely bnb. 45km
We enjoyed a walk around the old
town and then ate a delicious dimmer in our rooamd binged Netflix.

Day 8 La Laguna -Los christiano ferry to (La palma 9hrs 115km
Massive day with an early start lots of climbing to 2400 metres 2 descent  hikeabike sections , some beautiful pine forests, barren lava fields, wild fire devastated forests and some massive climbs. Then came the descent down to sea level whoop whoop blimmin awesome. After being high and cool (there was snow on top of the volcano) we rolled down to sea level and 27 degrees at 5pm at night. Booked the ferry to our last Island La palma. Hoping for some nice beach camps for our last few days here in the Canary islands 🇮🇨

Day 9
Hello Santacruz de la palma. We woke to a stunning day , enjoyed breakfast at ourbnbthen set off to explore our last island. We cruised through the town then immediately started climbing along the coast through acres of banana plantations.  What a contrast to the other islands. There were avocados, papaya, guavas, bananas all growing along the roadside with bougainvillea plants and frangipani. Too beautiful . We stopped at a roadside caravan for a coffee and the most delicious pIn o chocolate straight out of the oven.The terrain was spectacular with massive volcanic ridges and gullies. We dropped off  the highpoint of the island and enjoyed a massive free flowing pine needle covered 4 wheel drive track deep down to the valley below.  My bike had been playing up a bit and we had heard a screeching metallic sound but it came right until now. We had gone passed the abounded town of .... where we thought we might camp and headed back into the pine forest for a 10km climb when I came to a screeching halt and found that I could not peddle. We check the bike and found that the bearings on the derailed wheel had shat themselves.  We took it apart and put some lube in but we knew it was a short term fix and it potentially wouldn't get us a few metres up the road. It was just before dark so we pitched the tent on the side of the track and googled bike shops. Luckily there was one 50kms away and it was ostly downhill. We messaged them and not only did they have the part but they were also open on a Saturday.  We went to bed a bit anxious hoping to be able to ride to the shop but also realistic that we may need to hitch. We'd just gone to bed when a vehicle bumped its way past the tent . We were grateful we had moved off the track as it looked like no vehicles had travelled up  it for sometime and we were not expecting a car to come passed at all. We slept intermittently lulled by tge sound of water trickling down a water pipe next to our tent, then waken by the nearby sheep, dogs and chickens and roosters.

Day 10
Got up at 6.30am and set off around 7.15am just on day break. The bike albeit a bike noisy seemed to ge holding together   We deviated off our route to stay on sealed roads incase we needed to hitch. Luckily everything together and we made it to the bikeshop in one piece. They replaced both derailleur wheels on both bikes   Once again wefelt very lucky to be able to get what we needed when we needed it. We left feeling pretty relieved and got back on track. We resupplied and headed back up in to the hills. 





































































Conquering the European Divide Trail: A Hardcore Bikepacking Journey Across Europe

  The European Divide Trail (EDT) isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s a relentless, awe-inspiring adventure that demands stamina, persevera...